See it before you book

Tattoo Try-On

Upload a photo of the spot you're thinking about, describe the tattoo, and see it on your own skin in about a minute. The same design reads completely differently on a forearm than it does on a screen - this is the step that tells you whether you actually want it.

Design settings

A straight-on shot of bare skin in even daylight. Resized in your browser before it's sent.

Describe the subject, one or two details, and roughly how big it should be.

Only needed if the photo shows more than one possible spot.

Your photo is sent to our image provider to render the tattoo and isn't saved to your account. Only the result is kept.

Tips for better results

  • Even daylight, straight on, bare skin - the photo matters more than the words.
  • Say roughly how big it should be. Scale is what people misjudge most.
  • If it looks pasted on, retake the photo before rewriting the description.

Canvas

Your tattoo preview will appear here

1 free credit when you sign in · high-res, no watermark

How it works

Three steps, and the photo does most of the work.

01

Photograph the spot

Take a straight-on photo in even daylight of the area you're considering - forearm, calf, shoulder. Bare skin, no shadow across it, and hold the camera roughly a foot away. A clear photo is the single biggest factor in whether the result looks real.

02

Describe the tattoo

Write it the way you'd explain it to an artist - the subject, one or two supporting details, and the rough size. "A fine-line fox curled around a crescent moon, about the size of a playing card" beats "fox tattoo".

03

Look at it properly

Download it, put it on your phone, and look at it again tomorrow. Scale is the thing people get wrong most often, and a design that looked right on the first viewing frequently looks too big or too small a day later.

Who it's for

Mostly people who are almost sure.

If you're hesitating about the size

Scale is the hardest thing to judge from a flat design, and it's the thing people most often regret. Seeing the piece against your own arm, next to your own hand, settles the question in a way a design sheet never does.

If you're working around existing ink

New work has to sit with what's already there. Photographing the area as it is now shows you whether the new piece is going to crowd an existing tattoo or leave an awkward gap between them.

If you're a tattoo artist

Faster than drawing a stencil to find out a client doesn't like the placement. Useful in a consultation for settling the size and position conversation before either of you commits time to it.

Real output

Designs straight from the generator.

Unedited results, not stock art. Some are flat designs, some are rendered on skin so you can judge the scale.

Fine line cat with moon & botanicals - generated with the tattoo try-on
Fine line butterfly with wildflowers - generated with the tattoo try-on
Golden retriever portrait - generated with the tattoo try-on
Fine line name tattoo with a rose - generated with the tattoo try-on
Fine line snake wrapped around a rose - generated with the tattoo try-on
Fine line moon phases - generated with the tattoo try-on
Worth knowing first

What this is good at, and where it isn't.

It's a preview, not a proof

The render shows you scale, position and rough weight - which is most of what you want to know. What it can't do is predict how a specific artist will draw it, how the ink will settle into your skin over the first year, or how the piece will move when the muscle underneath does. Take the preview to a studio and let them tell you what changes.

Photo quality decides result quality

A blurry, dim or steeply angled photo gives the model very little to work with, and the tattoo tends to come out looking pasted on rather than sitting in the skin. Even daylight and a straight-on angle fix most bad results. If the first attempt looks like a sticker, retake the photo before changing the description.

Your photo isn't stored on your account

The photo you upload is sent to our image provider to render the preview and isn't saved to your account or shown in your design history - only the finished image is kept. That said, it does pass through a third-party service, so use a photo of the body part alone rather than one with your face in it.

FAQ

Questions people actually ask.

What kind of photo works best?
A straight-on shot of bare skin in even daylight, taken about a foot away, with the area filling most of the frame. Avoid harsh shadow across the spot, heavy angles, and busy backgrounds. A good photo matters more than a detailed description here.
Do you keep the photo I upload?
It isn't saved to your account and it doesn't appear in your design history - only the generated preview is kept. The photo is sent to our image provider to render the result. We'd still suggest photographing just the body part rather than including your face.
How accurate is the preview?
Good for scale, position and overall weight, which is what most people are unsure about. Less reliable for fine detail - the model tends to render lines finer than skin will actually hold. Treat it as a realistic mock-up rather than a photograph of a finished tattoo.
Can I try the same design in a few positions?
Yes, and it's worth doing. Each attempt costs one credit. Photograph the area once, then run it a few times describing a different position or size each time - that comparison is usually more useful than any single render.
Why does my tattoo look like a sticker?
Almost always the photo. Flat, even lighting gives the model no surface information to work with, so it lays the design on top instead of wrapping it around the limb. Retake the photo with soft directional daylight and a slight angle to the limb, and it improves a lot.
Is it free?
A new account comes with one free credit, which covers one try-on. After that, credit packs start at $5 for 15, with no subscription and no expiry.

See it on your skin before it's permanent.

One free credit to start. High-resolution download, no watermark.

Try a tattoo on